Those Nylock nuts are usually rated around grade 2 to 5.įirst, thank you to everyone for taking the time to look at the photos and letting me know what you saw. One last note: Use Grade 8 or better bolts and lock nuts when you go back together with it. It becomes a real issue when you are driving what should be a sweet little pickup and you are dragging a 250 buck bias white wall sideways on every turn. It isn't much of an issue with a drag car where normally only goes straight and the only turns are getting on to the return lane and a bit of maneuvering around the pits. Something such as an Anglia front axle on a stretched frame roadster with a 130-inch wheelbase. Normally where you see the issue when dealing with hot rods is when someone radically changes the wheelbase of the vehicle or uses steering pieces for a vehicle with a much different wheelbase than they are putting it on. Right now one tire does not want to follow around in a circle that is perfectly centered on the circle that the other tire is traveling on and or the rear tires don't want to follow in that circle. I've seen a hundred threads on here on steering issues where someone tossed out the Ackerman thing to sound knowledgeable but this time the "dragging the tire on corners" thing is an Ackerman issue.
That way the steering arms sit flat on the spindles, you don't need spacers and the Ackerman issue is most likely a moot point. Some are going to beat on me like I was a poor stepchild but if it were me and the area on the backing plates that is interfering with the arms could be slightly modified for clearance without causing any issue with brake shoes or hardware, I would modify the backing plates for clearance.
When you take them off, set them on a smooth flat surface and hold a tri square up to the end of the arm with the hole for the tie rod and make sure that they are square to the mounting surface of the arm. Hopefully most of that bend is in the bolts and not in the steering arms.
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